At Aspencot, I breed only to keep show puppies for myself, selling only those that are not quite of potential show quality. All breeding stock is tested annually for both heart and eye problems and from 2008 MRI screened, and I use only heart and eye clear stud dogs and now only those with A grades in their MRI scans. My dogs and puppies get the very best I can give them from day one, both in physical and mental care. Puppies are reared in the home on top quality food, wormed regularly and vet checked, microchipped and treated against fleas before they go to their new homes. For the first three weeks, peace and quiet in a spotlessly clean, warm and safe environment is the regime, meeting only their mother and myself. They are weighed and checked over daily to ensure they are growing properly, so the first signs of anything going wrong can be picked up and acted upon. It is, of course, also important that Mum gets plenty of top quality food, is in tiptop condition before she is mated, and is kept calm and happy whilst performing her maternal duties.
After three weeks the puppies' boundaries are increased gradually, never overfacing them, never letting them become either scared or bored, so that by eight weeks they will have met strangers and children, my cat and my GSD to accustom them to big dogs, been carried out to see traffic, and encouraged to go out into the garden to play and be clean. Keeping their area perfectly clean is a great chore, but is well worth it when I see puppies housetraining themselves with only the smallest assistance from me. I feel confident that an Aspencot puppy has had the best start it can to become a well-adjusted, happy dog that will become a joy to his or her new family. When you pick up your puppy, he will have been: Kennel Club registered Microchipped Insured Wormed at three weeks, five weeks and seven weeks old with Panacur liquid, and Treated with 'Frontline' against fleas and ticks.
	He will come with: Pedigree certificate Kennel Club registration certificate (for transfer into your own name) Insurance cover note for six weeks (information on continuation cover will come to your address) Petlog microchip registration form Contract of Sale Training advice sheets, and Food for at least three days.

You should buy also: Bowls - one water and one food, non-tip and easy to clean, either the heavy pottery type or stainless steel with flared sides (plastic is not suitable for puppies!) Bedding - Vetbed is the best, two pieces to fit the bed or crate (beanbags and foam beds are not suitable for puppies!) Bed - either the oval plastic sort or, preferably, a cage of about 24" by 18" (60cm by 45cm - see house training notes for more on crate training) Soft brush and comb for grooming Toys - make sure they are suitable for small puppies. You should bring the Vetbed or other bedding to us a day or two before you collect your puppy so that we can use it at home. That way, it will smell familiar and make your new puppy feel safer in your home for the first night or two, and settle more quickly. If you will be collecting your puppy on your own, bring a cardboard box or similar or, preferably, a travelling cage to put the puppy in safely whilst you drive. Within the first few days of owning your Cavalier puppy, you should take him to your vet for his first vaccination and a health check. Take the above information with you, your vet will want to know when and with what he has already been treated. If you don't already know a local vet, visit all your local practices before collecting your puppy, and choose the best one for you. Don't forget that if your vet is too far away, this could be a factor in an emergency. Recommended Authors - if you would like to buy or borrow a book or two to help you with your new puppy, try the following: 'Caring for your Dog' by Dr Bruce Fogle (general care and detailed medical advice) 'It's Me Or The Dog' by Victoria Stilwell (training advice - very good!) 'The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel' by Bruce Field 'The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel' by Margaret Workman